In this case, I am not going to use the springs that were on the chair. There are a couple of reasons why I have decided to use new springs. First off my customer is paying me a lot of money to restore these chairs. I want to make sure that they will receive the best, when the chair is complete. I also want to add an additional row of springs. I feel that by adding the additional springs will give better support and I will have a better base to start with when I go to applying the padding and the fabric. So with all new springs I will know that they are all the same height, condition and strength. Ten inch coil springs are relatively inexpensive. They are generally sold by the pound. They would be available through wholesalers, your local upholstery shop or I can, for a small fee, provide them to you. The project that you may be working on may not need new springs.
I use, what is called, a “Clinch-it” tool to attach the springs. A very handy tool to have when attaching springs to the webbing. This tool makes the job easier, faster and I think better than hand sewing them to the deck. The down side is that the tool is expensive. If you are thinking of doing upholstery work for something other than a hobby, I would recommend an investment in one of these tools.
The other alternative to using the clinch it tool is to hand sew the springs to the webbing. This is a tried and true method of attaching the springs, just a little more time consuming. The down side being that the chance of a spring slipping is greater and twine has known to break or deteriorate over time.
I would use a large curved upholstery needle and some button twine to hand sew the springs to the base. As you would, using the clinch it tool, arrange the springs accordingly. Making sure that the springs are equally spaced and not to close to either edge to the chair frame. Run your needle and twine up and over and back under the first spring. Tie off the twine under the first spring. Run the needle up through the webbing and up and over another area on the first spring. I try to attach the spring in a “Y” shape on the bottom of the spring. I use this same “Y” pattern when using my clinch it tool. This pattern will help to keep the spring stable and secure. You don’t have to tie off each loop, just loop it over a couple times at each location. Try to end your last loop where you can go on to the next spring at its nearest location. On a chair I would allow myself enough twine to make it a continues run. If you run short just tie it off and start again. You want to make sure that that the twine is run on the bottom side of the webbing. When complete all you will want to see, from the top, is the loops that go over the spring. All the knots and excess twine will be hidden under the dust cover. If you do not have access to the upholstery needles and the button twine, for a small fee, I can provide those products to you.
Next posting. Tying the springs. Remember when working with antique furniture “patience is a virtue”. If it gets frustrating, walk away from it. Feel free to email me if you have questions.
I use, what is called, a “Clinch-it” tool to attach the springs. A very handy tool to have when attaching springs to the webbing. This tool makes the job easier, faster and I think better than hand sewing them to the deck. The down side is that the tool is expensive. If you are thinking of doing upholstery work for something other than a hobby, I would recommend an investment in one of these tools.
The other alternative to using the clinch it tool is to hand sew the springs to the webbing. This is a tried and true method of attaching the springs, just a little more time consuming. The down side being that the chance of a spring slipping is greater and twine has known to break or deteriorate over time.
I would use a large curved upholstery needle and some button twine to hand sew the springs to the base. As you would, using the clinch it tool, arrange the springs accordingly. Making sure that the springs are equally spaced and not to close to either edge to the chair frame. Run your needle and twine up and over and back under the first spring. Tie off the twine under the first spring. Run the needle up through the webbing and up and over another area on the first spring. I try to attach the spring in a “Y” shape on the bottom of the spring. I use this same “Y” pattern when using my clinch it tool. This pattern will help to keep the spring stable and secure. You don’t have to tie off each loop, just loop it over a couple times at each location. Try to end your last loop where you can go on to the next spring at its nearest location. On a chair I would allow myself enough twine to make it a continues run. If you run short just tie it off and start again. You want to make sure that that the twine is run on the bottom side of the webbing. When complete all you will want to see, from the top, is the loops that go over the spring. All the knots and excess twine will be hidden under the dust cover. If you do not have access to the upholstery needles and the button twine, for a small fee, I can provide those products to you.
Next posting. Tying the springs. Remember when working with antique furniture “patience is a virtue”. If it gets frustrating, walk away from it. Feel free to email me if you have questions.
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