Antique Chair, part 8

Now that the springs are secured to the webbing it is time to “tie” the springs. I prefer jute spring tying twine. There are synthetic twines out there that will do the job. I just prefer the jute mainly because I am old and in a rut J. I then cut off a piece of the twine; I allow about 1 ½ times the width of the frame, your better off having plenty and trimming it off. Here again I am going to use a 9/16 inch staple to attach the twine to the frame. Again I am using the staples because of the condition of the rails. The other alternative to the staples would be a # 16 upholstery tack. Start tying the center row of springs, rear rail to front rail. Hold the twine to the frame while allowing enough to fold back the twine (2 to 3 inches), shoot a couple staples over the twine. Fold the twine back over and shoot a couple more staples in and then fold it back over itself and shoot a couple more staples. Using the staples to attach the twine is perhaps not the “best” way to attach the spring ties to the frame. But taking into consideration of the age, condition of the rails, and how my customer is going to use this chair, I felt it was the best way to approach this restoration.
The next step is to start to tie the springs. This step can be frustrating to even an experienced upholster. I will try to describe to you these steps. Sometimes it is trail and error until you get it. Take your time, don’t try to get into a hurry, find a clean empty spot on your work bench in case you have to bang your head a couple times. My first tie is going to go on the second or in some cases the third coil of the spring. Run the twine up through the top of the spring. I then hold the twine and the coil between my thumb and finger at the same time pushing the spring towards the back of the chair. Now this is where the trail and error come in. Through experience you will be able to determine how far back you push the spring. When you get the spring to the right position loop the twine under the coil and the twine and back through. Some would call this knot a half hitch some would call it a granny knot. You may be wondering why push the spring backward. Patience Grasshopper. The next knot will be to the front top coil of the same spring. Tie the knot the same as you did before. Run your twine over to the next spring, run the twine under the coil with the twine and coil between your thumb and finger. Pull this spring back to within about an inch of the previous spring, tie it off. Go to the front of that spring and tie it off. Go to the back top coil of the front spring, repeat as described before (don’t forget to push the spring back). Then run your twine down to the second coil of the front spring, tie it off. Now this next step takes a little hand strength. Hook two fingers of your left hand over the coil that you just tied off. Hook your thumb to the front of the chair frame. Hold the twine with your free hand and pull the springs forward. Remember leaning all the springs backward. As you pull the springs forward you will want them to be pretty much upright. At the same time as you pull the spring forward you will also be bringing them down to a level that is appropriate with the chair. Not to high, not to low, just right. Hold the twine down to the frame with your thumb of your left hand, grab your staple gun and secure the twine. Finish it off like you did with the rear rail. Now repeat this process to the other rows of springs. You will want all the springs to be even, level and spaced fairly equally. Now repeat this same process going from side rail to side rail. When you are finished the spring system should be level, even, secure and tight. If it is not it will be difficult to have a professional looking seat.
Next posting “applying the padding”.